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Halfway between the Fortress of Bani (Craiova) and the Fortress of Severin (Drobeta Turnu Severin), a fortified secular construction rises fiercely, in which the legend, history and religion are harmoniously interwoven: Strehaia Monastery. The monastery complex was erected near the old court of the Craioveşti boyars by the ruler Mihai Viteazul, who held for a period the role of bănișor of Strehaia, and rebuilt in 1645 at the order of Matei Basarab. At present, the fortified monastic assembley remains one of the most important places of worship in the region and an open book on the history of the place.
The church of Strehaia Monastery is considered unique among the Romanian churches, being the only monastery in the country with the altar facing south. In the Orthodox faith, the churches are built with the altar facing east, towards the east, that being the place where the light comes from. Due to this strange orientation of the Strehaia altar, several local legends circulate.
One of them was taken over by the great Romanian historian Nicolae Iorga, who attributed the founding of the monastery to Mihai Viteazul. According to the legend, he would have built a first church here, which he would have built during the night. Without being able to orientate himself after the sun, Mihai Viteazul would have placed the church wrong, with the altar facing south. Matei Basarab, who lived in the church in the seventeenth century, also maintained the same orientation.
Other explanations of the south orientation of the altar refer to the intention of the founders to escape the church from the damage caused by the attackers. It is known that, at that time, the surroundings were often robbed by the Turks, who identified the Christian places of worship after the location of their altars to the east. Apparently, the south-facing orientation of the Strehaia altar, strategically chosen, misled the Ottomans, the church escaping such robbery.
There is also a scientific hypothesis, the significance of which is unknown, which makes the connection between the altar of the church of Strehaia Monastery and the winter solstice. Over the years, it has been observed that, on December 22nd, at 8.30-9.00 am, the church is divided into two equal parts by a ray of sun entering the window from the altar.
The truth seems to be related to the first founders, the famous Craioveşti boyars, whose family gave a large amount of money to Oltenia. They built a royal palace in Strehaia in the first half of the 16th century (of which only the lower part of the cellars are preserved) and a church. Thus, the settlement of the church would have been determined by a connecting corridor with the royal palace. However, it is possible that the church was simply oriented because there was not enough space between the building of the royal palace and the body of the cells.
Although many stories and legends circulate about the orientation of the altar from Strehaia, this is not the only particularity of the monastery. Visitors – tourists or pilgrims – admire today the tower on the pronaos, rectangular in shape, which makes the church look like a ship, or the royal pavilion, which connected the royal palace through a suspended corridor.
Considered historical monuments of national importance, Strehaia Monastery is one of the most important tourist attractions in Mehedinți county. Between the fortified walls of the assembly there are interwoven centuries of history and legend, but also of art and natural beauty …
Bibliography:
• Alexandra Georgescu, „The weirdness with a trick of the Strehaia Monastery: the wrong oriented altar. How the smart Oltenians wanted to trick the Turks”, 18 July 2015, https://adevarul.ro/locale/turnu-severin/ciudatenia-schepsis-manastirii-strehaia-altarul-orientat-gresit-vrut-oltenii-isteti-sa-i-pacaleasca-turci-1_55a8ec4bf5eaafab2ca8b79f/index.html
• Monica Stuparu, “Strehaia Monastery, between history and legend”, 16 September 2016, https://www.gds.ro/Local/2016-09-16/manastirea-din-strehaia,-intre-istorie-si-legenda-2/